mac and cheese

There are several different common approaches to make mac and cheese:

Béchamel method   ^†

This actually uses a daughter sauce of Béchamel, known as Mournay sauce.

• https://www.seriouseats.com/classic-bechamel-baked-mac-cheese-recipe
• https://www.ethanchlebowski.com/cooking-techniques-recipes/basic-but-good-macaroni-and-cheese

concentrated pasta water method   ^†

• https://www.seriouseats.com/ingredient-stovetop-mac-and-cheese-recipe
• https://www.ethanchlebowski.com/cooking-techniques-recipes/3-ingredient-stovetop-mac-amp-cheese [▶]
• https://www.gimmesomeoven.com/best-stovetop-mac-cheese/
• https://www.logansinnerchef.com/blog/easy-mac-and-cheese-dont-strain-that-pasta-cooking-water

fondue + white wine method   ^‡

Here you reduce white wine, which results in a mixture that ends up containing a lot of sodium citrate.

• https://www.wednesdaynightcafe.com/swiss-alps-mac-and-cheese/
• https://ericasrecipes.com/wine-and-thyme-mac-n-cheese/
• https://theviewfromgreatisland.com/fondue-macaroni-and-cheese/
• https://www.thecreativebite.com/macaroni-cheese-fondue/
• https://www.wineenthusiast.com/recipe/fondue-mac-and-cheese/
• https://catfishoutofwater.com/macaroni-cheese-w-white-wine-emmentaler/
• https://www.forkinthekitchen.com/gourmet-white-wine-mac-and-cheese/ [▶]

sodium citrate method   ^‡

Sodium citrate is a common food additive, and here it functions as an emulsifier.

• https://modernistcuisine.com/recipes/silky-smooth-macaroni-and-cheese/
• https://modernistcuisine.com/mc/science-helps-craft-the-perfect-mac-and-cheese/
• https://www.smoked-meat.com/forum/forum/cheese/27970-modernist-cuisine-mac-and-cheese-a-bit-technical
• https://blog.modernistpantry.com/wtf/the-secret-of-deep-fried-mac-n-cheese/
• https://www.ethanchlebowski.com/cooking-techniques-recipes/sodium-citrate-mac-amp-cheese [▶]

Background reading:

• https://www.cheeseprofessor.com/blog/sodium-citrate-cheese-sauce

American cheese method   ^‡

Here, you're using cheese that has already been made into a fondue (and then solidified), so it already contains the emulsifiers you need. Often you can use as little as 50% American cheese, which lets you combine it with other cheeses that have the flavor you want.

• https://www.seriouseats.com/the-food-labs-ultra-gooey-stovetop-mac-cheese
• https://www.americastestkitchen.com/articles/5206-creamiest-mac-n-cheese   [archive]
• https://www.ethanchlebowski.com/cooking-techniques-recipes/creamy-mac-amp-cheese-template-w-any-cheeses

† A starch-and-cheese-type method.

‡ A fondue-type method.

writeups on many of the above

• https://www.quora.com/When-making-macaroni-and-cheese-are-you-supposed-to-use-a-mornay-sauce-or-is-it-some-other-method

"In general, the starch plus cheese style sauces have a milder cheese flavor, but are creamier, and the fondue style sauces are tangier, and have a richer cheese flavor. You can alternate between them based on what you are trying to accomplish, flavor-wise. The fondue method, and especially the sodium citrate method, however, lend themselves best to attempting alternate cheeses that may not work with the other methods, like feta cheese."

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aV0Wq-aYAeY from Ethan Chlebowski